Here's a link to our work this time:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/6923768/tamper/tamperevidentcovertpenv1.pdf

Link to lots more pictures:

So... this should have worked:

But... we didnt get it to work.

We got the shim through:

and tried a bunch of things. 

Got a tutorial from Riverside on shimming:

But, since we couldnt get this to work, we decided to go with the cut the seal and lock/glue it in and hide it inside the seal.

We had a couple of different theories about this one. We went for the shimming approach and struggled with that. Riverside came by and helped us a whole bunch. 

We knew it could be done, cuz well... i saw Datagram do it:

He got some shims built (see flickr for the details) and make some real progress... We got it to slip and move around, but ran low on time.

We decided to go for some brute force approaches.

The idea was to cut the cable and slide both cut sides into the seal. This had some potential, and was how we defeated the blue plastic seal, but the stranded cable rope destranded on us when we cut it. We needed to do something like warp it with a cable tie to keep that from happening.

We Played with magnets too!

1) Stickers on the outside of the box were moved.

2) The black tape inside the cd box was moved to the left side from the right (was under the cd).

3) the code with the happy face was given eyes and a tongue.

4) the picture was replace for challenge 1 as instructed, but an unicorn magically jumped onto the page too.

First attempt was using electrolysis, following datagram's example from defcon.

We used bailing wire as both the anode and cathode.  The power source
is 12 volts and capable of supplying 1 amp.  We added 98% sulphuric acid
to water to accelerate the electrolysis.  The solution is now about 20%
sulphuric.  The acid is VIOLENTLY reactive with water.  The water
boiled immediately when we poured the acid in.  By using a large surface
area for the cathode but a small one for the anode the electrolysis is
concentrated on the tamper tag.

We made the bailing wire very tight around the wires to the tamper tag
which is putting stress on them deep in the plastic where they bend
back up to make hooks.  We hoped that even if the whole wires don't
dissolve, the bend will and the pieces will fall out.

Sulphuric acid is ridiculously scary stuff.

Second attempt was with force and replacement.

Pulled out metal piece with diagonal pliers until the plastic began to show stress.  Cut the wires off, then pushed them back into the bottom.  Then we cut open an identical tag, took out the wire, and pushed it into the blue plastic.

There are way more pictures at http://www.flickr.com/photos/gebl/sets just look for the Tamper sets.

Envelopes:

Envelope type 1 that were opened by slicing the side were resealed by elmers glue or tape. The one resealed by tape was because some of the paper was cut off and wasn't enough to glue back together without risking getting glue on the contents inside.

Envelope type 2 with the V-shaped flaps were resealed exclusively with tape. This is because the paper was cut in the process of opening.  Clear tape was cut into strips and placed underneath the opening. The flap was then closed, sticking to the facing up tape.

Plastic bag:
The 3 envelopes were placed into the plastic bag through the slit on the bottom.  A scrap paper bag was placed on top and aligned with the very bottom.  The heat gun was used rapidly to reseal the plastic bag.  It worked very well.

Paper bag:
The cd case and wax sealed envelope were placed into the paper bag. The bottom was sealed with elmers glue. The red seal was replaced.

The other plastic bag with the chain was sealed by replacing the red tape and touching it up with superglue.

All 3 bags and black box were placed into the large box and the tape on top of the box was replaced.

The plastic bag has a very tight seal on the top.  We attempted to dissolve the seal with various solvents, but none worked.  Finally, we used a X-actor knife to make a hole at the bottom of the bag and used scissors to cut just enough to slip out the 3 envelopes.

We inspected the box, then opened it with the 4 screws.  The light came on when the cover was removed.  We recorded the key pasted to the cover.  We placed 2 screwdrivers connected by a jumper thru the metal plate holes to complete the circuit with the plate off.  We then grounded an end pin in the IC to reset the circuit, which caused the light to go off.  We then slid the metal plate down the screwdrivers and resealed the box without breaking the circuit.

At Vegas the mutherfucking professionals did a pretty good job of scraping off the wax seal from the envelope, so we decided to take a different route. That may not have been our best choice. 

Some photos from Defcon are here:

We decided to try cold first. That didn't do so well...

Looking promising here:

But, some cracks appeared here.

So, we went to our super awesome back up plan that totally should have worked, but needs some practice.

So, on to this write up. First, we took a casting of the original wax seal. 

Looks very niiiiiiice....

Next, we took the silly putty back and ran a test because there was a concern that the epoxy reaction would generate too much heat for the casting.

Turns out our gorilla 5 minute epoxy took to long to set. Probably because the ratios of the agents weren't correct, so off to the hardware store to get some better stuff.

We got some better epoxy and made a mold.

Unfortunately, we had to wait some time for the epoxy to show up. the silly putty did its silly putty thing and the mold got a bit smushy.

The better epoxy did a pretty good job of making a negative. We needed to positive it... first try, we took the cracked wax from the seal and put it into a silly putty mold. Applied some heat and got an ok copy. 

We really needed more wax though, and this was deemed a fail.

We then decided to just try out the epoxy mold to see what would happen if we just used the original wax and were to have made a "new" stamper.

Beauty EH?

We melted the wax and stamped at it. This was a bit of a fail, the wax started to stick to the epoxy. I think casting it metal would have been a better call. We also needed some more wax. I think there's some potential to this direction, but that we'd need to spend some more time crafting a new stamper.